2023 Black Sears Estate Cabernet Sauvignon

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The 2023 vintage was a winegrower's dream. After years of fire, drought, and below-average yields, 2023 brought abundant rainfall and a long, cool growing season that let us pick at leisure. Some concern crept in during a cool early September, but October warmth brought the fruit to perfect maturity right on schedule. The result: wines that are dense, concentrated, and unusually polished for us — built to age for a decade or more.

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The '23 Cab pours a deep garnet at its core, giving way to a brilliant ruby at the edges — there's a real gemstone quality to it in the glass. The nose opens with beef blood and tapenade before the ripe cherries come through, then menthol, dried tobacco leaf, dark chocolate, crushed blackberries, fresh leather, anise, and forest floor underneath it all. On the palate it's baker's chocolate and kirsch up front, crushed blueberries and roasted coffee beans, macerated blackberries, menthol again, chocolate spearmint, black and red currants, fennel, forest herbs, dried sage. It's a wine that's austere and generous at the same time — well structured but supple, too. That iron-beef blood character on the approach moves into a rich, energetic mid-palate, then finishes long and mouthwatering on chocolate, menthol, and dried tobacco leaf, with a dusty, minty note that reminds me of the hillsides around the vineyard. You can taste the cool vintage in the wine's energy and restraint, but there's plenty of fruit density and concentration to counterbalance it. Overall, this one's going to keep getting better with time.


This is a wine that wants something with real fat and char to it. A dry-aged ribeye off the grill is the obvious call, especially with a hard sear, since the beef blood and iron notes in the wine practically ask for it. Braised short ribs or a lamb shoulder that's been in the oven for hours would work just as well, particularly with something dark and savory alongside it, like a mushroom ragout or a bit of tapenade on the side. Given the dried tobacco, sage, and chocolate spearmint running through the palate, dishes with a little smoke or char, think a wood-fired dish, or something finished with fresh herbs, tend to bring those notes forward. If you want to go simpler, a good hard cheese and dark chocolate at the end of the meal will do the same work.


Vintage
2023
Varietal
Cabernet Sauvignon
Appellation
Howell Mountain, Napa Valley
Vineyard block
Black Sears Estate, block 8
Elevation
2,400 feet
Winemaker
Thomas Rivers Brown
Harvest date
October 6, 2023
Bottling date
June 2025
Farming
Organic/Biodynamic (totally uncertified)
Aging
73% new oak, 18 months in barrel post-fermentation, racked twice
ABV
14.9%
Drinking window
2026–Death

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A Season of Patience

Winter came in wet and cold, with heavy rain and temperatures that sat below average for weeks at a time. It kept the vines dormant longer than usual, which turned out to matter later. Spring arrived slowly too, starting with light snow and scattered showers before finally warming up by mid-April. Bud break came April 24th.

Summer never really rushed. Mornings stayed cool and gray, afternoons ran below average, and the vines took their time through bloom on June 13th. Then, at the end of June into early July, a heat wave broke the pattern and pushed things forward. Veraison followed on August 21st.

By September, temperatures had cooled back into the mid-80s, and there was a stretch of real concern, the kind of cool that makes you wonder if the fruit will get where it needs to go. Then October warmed into the mid-90s, and everything caught up at once. That late-season heat gave us the dehydration and concentration this vintage needed, and we picked on October 6th, right at the moment the fruit hit perfect maturity.

The blend is 40% Clone 685, 30% See Clone, and 30% Clone 7, farmed the same way we always farm, then aged 18 months in barrel with 73% new oak.

It's a vintage that tested patience more than most. A long, cool season with a real question mark in the middle of it, answered by two weeks of October heat. What came out of the tank was dense, concentrated, and about as polished as this wine gets. Age-worthy in a way that isn't always true here. We think this one's going to be remembered.